It had been a quiet trip up to now but at last the breeze
was filling in and we needed to keep the sail area up. A small
intensive low pressure was running us in, and we were losing.
Very soon reefs were called for, the wind was building and
conditions were becoming difficult but we had to move fast
or the gale force winds would be upon us. Thunder appeared
in the evening twilight to be all but flying and it looked
as though we might make it. But then the situation deteriorated,
a call was made to hand the jib topsail and it would not be
long before night was upon us. Still everything depended upon
the speed of the boat. Now it was dark, raining hard and we
were in a deep channel with land invisible to our left and
wind turbines secured to a submerged bank to the east. They
were also invisible. The wind was 35 knots gusting 40 but
there was not far to go, still the barometer was falling,
would we make it, or were we going to have to turn back and
run off downwind. Then we saw the lights of shore and thankfully
found our way into the harbour and the eye of the storm passed
over us, the wind died and we were there - in Ireland.
It had taken us 48 hours from the Hamble River, with a gentle
sail to windward and westwards along the south coast with
only a light breeze at Land's End and then the race up the
Irish Sea before the building storm. Another boat had dived
into Rosslare at Ireland’s extreme south east corner
some 40 miles further south to recover, unable to sustain
the amount of water coming over and into the boat and another
yacht never made it seeking shelter in Milford Haven and not
daring to move on.
We had sailed to Wicklow on the east coast of Ireland some
20 miles south of Dublin to take part in the BMW Round Ireland
Race.
This time, for the first time, the 710 mile race was to be
sailed with just two crew, Donald Wilks and myself.
The next morning we said our goodbyes to our delivery crew
Ed Harland and Jerry Smith and spent time preparing the boat,
resting and eating and building our reserves ready for the
adventure.
The forecast for the race was not good. It was clear that
more low pressures were on the way and winds were likely to
be consistently between the southeast and northwest gradient
and strong, indeed the start was delayed due to the forecast
of gales.
Eventually the fleet of 49 boats were to leave Wicklow at
1800hrs(a six hour delay) on 26th June with Thunder part of
a small contingent of 7 two-handed yachts starting and competing
on the same course.
The winds had settled in the southeast between 20 and 30 knots
and with the last of the fair tide we headed out to the start
line outside the breakwater at Wicklow.
Those south easterly winds were scheduled to veer southwest
and so it would be inevitable that we would be beating against
it for the next 24 hours.
With the boat reefed down and a small headsail set we launched
ourselves across the start line into the steep seas made more
dramatic by the ebb tide.
Boats were losing sails, damage was occurring and seasickness
was setting in on some vessels.
On Thunder the forestay foil looked as though it would split
apart and I had concerns that our race would soon be over.
Conscious that the wind might die as it veered we held an
offshore course outside the Tuskar Rock the safer option for
a short-handed crew but perhaps not the quickest route as
the tide would soon be foul.
With no sleep gained that night, at dawn we were changing
headsails and heading west into Tramore Bay, all day we would
battle westwards tacking on the shifts sometimes inshore,
sometimes offshore and eventually in the late evening we found
ourselves in the company of other racing boats off the harbour
entrance of Cork.
Then the night came, the wind built and dropped and built
and dropped again, more tacks were required, ships to avoid,
lights to identify along the shore including the Old Head
of Kinsale and then daylight came once again we had reached
the Fastnet Rock.
The race instructions required us to report in at certain
points in the race and we had called at Tuskar Rock and then
gone on to round the Barrells Light Buoy, the Conningbeg Light
Vessel, the Old Head of Kinsale and now the Fastnet Rock where
we had to report again.
The Rock was a familiar sight although never seen in daylight
by me before despite four previous roundings in the Fastnet
Race itself. This time we were coming from the north and there
were the shoals to the south, which had to be avoided as we
left the lighthouse to starboard. The weather had cleared
but the forecast was for more wind this time from the west-southwest
and eventually the northwest.
Now we were entering the Atlantic proper, the swells were
bigger and the rocks as ever to starboard more dramatic rising
steeply out of a deep ocean. With the boat sailing fast once
more and on the edge of control at speeds in excess of 12
knots we set off northwards, rushing past Mizen Head, Gull
Rock off Bull Island and then around Washerwoman Rock. This
rock and its accompanying rocks sat off Great Skellig its
shape perhaps giving away the name of the rock to its west.
Then at great speed across Dingle Bay to report to Valentia
Radio when due west of Inishtearacht Lighthouse. How many
men on board came the reply. None, just two tired mad souls!
We had been sailing two whole days with very little sleep
had between us, we were tired but we were racing, apart from
the foil which continued to concern me the boat was fine,
a little wet but still fast.
Into Galway Bay, too far out to see the Aran Islands, daylight
once again started to turn to dusk and then almost in twilight
at midnight we were off the coast of Slyne Head.
The south westerly was still blowing a steady force 5 with
promises of more and sometimes less, always to the east rocks,
islands and mountains, this a coast that was a graveyard for
the Spanish Armada and one can understand why. They would
have had little chance of clawing off this lee shore as they
headed homeward into the teeth of the southwesterly prevailing
wind.
This wild shore was also a lee shore for us as we headed north
but the wind was on our beam and we could always head up westwards
out into the Atlantic away from the perils of Ireland's dangerous
but beautiful west coast.
Soon we would be bearing away more, around Inishshark west
of the Connemara Mountains then Black Rock and Eagle Island,
and into Donegal Bay. With the wind heading north this was
going to suit us.
Daylight was coming, and we had entered our third day looking
far to our north east towards the Derryveagh Mountains. All
day we sailed northwards, past Malin More Head, Aran Island
and then Tory Island and the Tor Rocks off Inishtrahull.
At last we were at the very north of Ireland, the wind had
veered south as we passed Tory Island with a smell of peat
fires drifting across the water. There were racing yachts
behind us, a larger yacht and one smaller, nothing seen in
front.
It was getting dark again, there were squalls, more wind,
conditions were worsening.
Malin Head that radio station so important for the north-west
passage between Ireland and Scotland where the tides rip at
up to 4 knots during springs was the next reporting station.
The Irish coastguard had done an excellent job. All the way
we had reported, always they had been there, always advising
the race committee the position of the yachts, recording retirements
(there had been 9 so far) and here I was reporting in with
just two more report stations to go. Yes we can hear you said
Malin Head and your position please, due south of you, are
you sure of that, that would put you on land. No of course
we were north in the water, I just swapped the compass around
in my head! The lack of sleep (which had so far amounted to
perhaps 8 hours each in 72 hours) was starting to affect us.
On Tuesday night we had Rathlin Island to leave to starboard.
The tide was taking us onto the shore and the wind was funnelling
up from the south, it was a beat again. When did we last stop
beating? It was 400 miles ago, when we rounded the Fastnet
Rock. Now instead of being in the due south-west of the island
we were now in the extreme north-east, it was colder, extraordinarily
it was lighter, with summer darkness of perhaps just four
hours and yet we had to take on Rathlin Island with a building
wind and a difficult tidal stream.
Still the wind built, now it was plus 35 knots and then suddenly
40, the main had to be taken down. The water was rough and
it was dark, the island was close by and yet we managed it.
A feat only achieved and made possible with Donald climbing
onto the boom to tie the headboard down. One of the other
two handed boats ahead of us had lost their crew over the
side but fortunately recovered him.
Much of the racing fleet experienced, tough, windy and difficult
conditions here and we were not the only ones to drop the
main at this point. We left Rathlin Island behind us. Now
we were tightly hemmed in by the narrows of the North Channel
with the Mull of Kintyre visible in the dawn twilight to the
east and the mountains and moor land of County Antrim to our
west.
The mainsail was back up, we were tacking again against the
wind past the entrance to Belfast Lock, close in and then
out as the wind shifted against us into the Irish Sea with
the Isle of Man in the distance.
Then with reports from the Irish Coast Guard of military test
firing, we had to be careful of our course.
Very tired now with daylight coming and yet a freezing wind
and then a complete change with little wind and warmth from
the southwest.
Then the wind inexplicably died and we were left drifting
off the entrance to Strangford Lock.
Giant cumulus clouds created by the summer heat over Ireland
had been sent skywards by the Mountains of Mourne and these
sucked what air there was in the Irish Sea away, perfect for
gliders but, leaving us and other boats bobbing helplessly
in their wake.
However, as the day cooled, the wind settled back and our
visions of being left out there for yet another whole night
dissipated as Thunder once again launched herself forward,
this time with a large headsail and a full main beating and
fetching south-southwest towards Dublin Bay, the Wicklow Bank
and the finish.
Dark again, it was Wednesday night but it could have been
any night. We were entering Dublin Bay and extremely tired
I chose the simplest passage between the Kish Bank and the
mainland shore and we headed due south tacking three or four
times right to the finish and crossing that line at 2 in the
morning.
We then had a discussion as to how we would drop sails at
2 o'clock that Thursday morning and this appeared to be the
hardest thing to achieve. Now I know why shorthanded race
crew have support crews at the start and finish. I will make
sure we have them next time!
With all the tacking against the wind we sailed some 825 miles
around Ireland when a direct course is closer to 710. We took
4 days and 8 hours at an average speed of 7.9 knots and had
slept in short one hour breaks perhaps for as much as 12 hours
each in all. We completed it two handed and of the seven two
handed starters, only four finished. We had achieved second
on the water and second in class.
Eleven boats retired, two had lost their masts. The others
had given up because of the rough weather principally due
to seasickness and the resulting exhaustion.
Would we do it again – yes of course – but perhaps
not two handed, there are too many rocks to miss. Give me
the wide-open Atlantic any day!
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